Wave Height Parameters

Max Individual Wave Height | Significant Wave Height | Significant Height Total Swell | Significant Height Wind Waves | Significant Wave Height First Swell | Significant Wave Height Second Swell | Significant Wave Height Third Swell |

Maximum Individual Wave Height

From a theory of wave height distribution that includes non-linear effects, the estimation value of the largest single wave height in a record of 20 minutes is derived.

max_individual_wave_height:m

Examples

Significant Wave Height

The significant wave height is traditionally defined as the mean wave height (trough to crest) of the highest third of the waves. Nowadays, it is usually defined as four times the standard deviation of the surface elevation or equivalently as four times the square root of the zeroth-order moment (area) of the full wave spectrum. 1

significant_wave_height:m

Examples

Significant Height Total Swell

Four times the square root of the integral over all directions and all frequencies of the total swell spectrum. The total swell spectrum is obtained by only considering the components of the two-dimensional wave spectrum that are not under the influence of the local wind.

significant_height_total_swell:m

Examples

Significant Height Wind Waves

4 times the square root of the integral over all directions and all frequencies of the windsea wave spectrum. The wind waves spectrum is obtained by only considering the components of the two-dimensional wave spectrum that are under the influence of the local wind (wind sea).

significant_height_wind_waves:m

Examples

Significant Wave Height First Swell

Significant wave height for the first most energetic partition of the swell spectrum, where the significant wave height is defined as 4 times the square root of the integral over all directions and all frequencies of the first partition of the swell spectrum. The swell spectrum is obtained by only considering the components of the two-dimensional wave spectrum that are not under the influence of the local wind.

significant_wave_height_first_swell:m

Examples

Significant Wave Height Second Swell

Significant wave height for the second most energetic partition of the swell spectrum, where the significant wave height is defined as 4 times the square root of the integral over all directions and all frequencies of the second partition of the swell spectrum. The swell spectrum is obtained by only considering the components of the two-dimensional wave spectrum that are not under the influence of the local wind.

significant_wave_height_second_swell:m

Examples

Significant Wave Height Third Swell

Significant wave height for the third most energetic partition of the swell spectrum, where the significant wave height is defined as 4 times the square root of the integral over all directions and all frequencies of the third partition of the swell spectrum. The swell spectrum is obtained by only considering the components of the two-dimensional wave spectrum that are not under the influence of the local wind.

significant_wave_height_third_swell:m

Examples

  1. Wikipedia Page of Significant Wave Height: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height
  2. National Hurricane Center: https://www.nhc.noaa.gov/pdf/TAFB_wave_period.pdf